The Rolex MilSub, a watch steeped in military history and shrouded in mystery, holds a unique place in the hearts of collectors. But within the already exclusive world of MilSubs, a particular subset commands almost mythical reverence: those bearing the coveted "circle T" marking. Understanding the nuances of these watches, specifically the differences between the last three iterations before the modern models, requires a deep dive into their production history and the subtle variations that distinguish them. This article will explore the evolution of the Rolex MilSub, focusing on the 5513, the double-stamped 5513/5517, and the ultimate grail – the final iteration – all characterized by the iconic "circle T" marking on the dial.
The allure of the MilSub isn't simply about its military heritage; it's about the subtle details, the almost imperceptible variations between models that whisper tales of a bygone era. It's about the hunt, the search for the perfect example, the thrill of acquiring a piece of horological history. And at the heart of this quest lies the "circle T," a seemingly insignificant detail that speaks volumes about the watch's provenance and desirability.
The Rolex "Swiss T" and "Swiss Made T": A Mark of Distinction
Before we delve into the specific MilSub models, let's understand the significance of the "Swiss T" and "T Swiss T" markings. These are not mere aesthetic choices; they represent a specific period in Rolex's history and the evolution of their branding. The "Swiss Made T" marking, often referred to simply as the "Swiss T," is characterized by the word "SWISS" being stacked above "T" which is itself above "MADE." The "T Swiss T" logo, often found on later models, is a more stylized version, with the "T" appearing as a central element, flanked by "SWISS" and "MADE." The evolution from the "Swiss T" to the "T Swiss T" is a subtle but important indicator of the watch's age. While both indicate Swiss manufacture, the specific design denotes a change in Rolex's branding strategy over time. The presence of either marking, specifically the "circle T" variant, on a MilSub significantly impacts its value and desirability. The "circle T" is a particularly sought-after variation of the "T Swiss T" marking, adding another layer of rarity and prestige.
The Rolex Submariner 5513: The Genesis of the Legend
The Rolex Submariner 5513, produced from the late 1960s through the early 1980s, forms the foundation of the MilSub lineage. Many examples of the 5513 were supplied to the British Ministry of Defence, leading to their association with military use and the subsequent designation "MilSub." These early 5513s often feature the "Swiss T" marking, though variations exist. Identifying a genuine MilSub 5513 requires careful examination of several features, including the dial, hands, bezel, caseback markings, and movement. The condition of the watch is crucial, as many have endured decades of wear and tear. Finding an unpolished, original example with its original bracelet is a significant undertaking and results in a substantially higher price.
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